Helmsdale to John O Groats - 52 miles

Well this was it the last day of real cycling and I woke to a wonderful sunny morning and after a good breakfast set out for John O Groats. I had been warned about two problems along the way. Firstly after 2 miles there is a long grinding climb from sea level up to 700ft. Once this is negotiated the Berriedale braes have to be tacked. This is a 13% climb up a steep hairpin bend for about three quarters of a mile. Fortunately my level of fitness was such that I had no problems with either of these challenges and got to the top relatively easily. Also after the hills in  Devon and Cornwall nothing can be that bad! The rest of the day was easy riding along the coast with blue sea on my right and heather and Cotton grass on my left. I had company for 48 miles of a fellow cyclist called Terry and it was good to share stories about the journey and life in general. The road then rose as I neared  John O Groats and the clouds grew darker. As the top of the hill was reached I could see right across to the Shetland Isles and the island of Hoy. I then rolled down into John O Groats and crossed the finishing line. I could not believe it was over. Its strange when I started out on that first morning I was not sure that I would finish. The weather was bad the terrain was hard and my mind was not right. After the wet Sunday two days later I could have given up. Why didn't I. When I look back on it I couldn't because the Journey was too important for me, I knew it would change my life if I let it and persisted. So that's what I did and it became as much a spiritual journey as a physical one. Also as the days passed my fitness improved and cycling became relatively effortless. I have met many interesting people along the way, most of them extremely kind and helpful. I have visited some amazing places, but as Dorothy said to Toto in  the Wizard of Oz, there no place like home. Lastly I would like to thank Alison for her support and clean clothing after the deluge on day 3. Also for the jelly babies, that she gave me that kept me going. My father was a greater cyclists than me and in part he  inspired me to undertake this journey. I often thought of his cycling exploits  and as I travelled along the way he was "with" me on the journey.. 
I fly back from Wick tomorrow lets hope I don't get caught up in the airport strike, I would hate to have to cycle home!

Inverness to Helmsdale - 68 miles

A fine but grey start to the day as I set out through a busy Inverness up the A9 and across the Beauly Firth over a large suspension bridge. The road then climbs up over the Black Isle and then heads for the east coast of the North sea which it hugs all the way up to John O Groats. I had the unusual experience this morning of freewheeling down hill for about three miles and I though "well this is easy". It did not last long as we then returned to the ups and downs of the coast road. Normal service had been resumed. I met a large group of end to enders today who were returning back to England by cycling through Ireland, better them than me! I passed them again on the road later on and did not see them again. As you get further up the coast you start to see  oil rigs out to sea and it comes as abit of a surprise. This is wild windy countryside with lots of birds of prey on the wing. I have also seen lots of Hooded crows hanging round with other members of the crow family. I also met a very fit 72 year old cyclist who was cycling form Essex to JOG. He was a retired Baptist minister and so we had lots of things to talk about on the way. He had problems with his disc brakes so I left him at Golspie at the cycle shop to see if he could get them repaired. Tomorrow involves some very difficult climbing for the first four miles so I think some pasta and an early night is required!

Fort Augustus to Inverness - 35 miles

A shorter ride today before a 70 mile ride up the east coast to Helmsdale. I will soon see the first signs for John oGroats when I leave Inverness. Today was one of those difficult riding days when it is hard to find a constant pace. This was mainly because of the heavy rain for most of the morning which made cycling unpleasant and the clouds cleared only as I left the mountains and neared Inverness. I took refuge in a bus shelter, had something to eat and sorted out my wet weather gear. I met a local giving her dog a walk and gave him a pat to get my "pet fix". Then headed off again onto the busy A82 that hugs the shores of Loch Ness. The Loch is very long and ever present so when it suddenly disappears it comes as a surprise, when you enter farmland and cities again.I find it hard to believe that in two days time I will be at John O Groats at the end of my journey.

Ballachulish to Fort Augustus - 47 miles

Off we go again on the road to Fort Augustus. Crossing the bridge at Onich proved interesting. It suddenly became amazingly windy and I was worried that I would be blown of my bike and then suddenly  my hat was blown off . Alison had made a cord with a crocodile clip to prevent me loosing  my hat, if such an event should occur and my hat flew out like a kite on a string and I was able to retrieve it again! It was just like being a kid again where your gloves are connected to each other by a piece of cord so you don't loose them. Eventually Fort William was reached along a rather busy main road. There is not much to see there so I hurried on and eventually found myself on a minor road to the north side of the Great Glen. This in contrast was narrow with passing places not that I saw many cars. It hugs the shore of Loch Lochy and then comes to an abrupt end. You then take what is called a forest trial through Clunes Forest for about 7 miles. This was something else, undulating, ever so bumpy, and full of swarms of midges. They were in your face and you could not stop in case your were eaten alive. After what seemed like an eternity I emerged out of the forest and arrived thankfully at Fort Augustus. A pleasant spot with good pubs and a beautiful backdrop of Lochs and mountains, just perfect!

Inveraray to Ballachulish - 67 miles

The placed that I stayed in Inverary was super, modern,clean and wonderful breakfast. Porridge followed by a salmon scrambled eggs. After loading up I set out in sunshine to head for Ballachulish some 67 miles away. The air was cool almost autumnal and this was not the occasion for stripping off. The first 8 miles woke me up as It was all up hill . I was glad I had not had the kippers! There then followed a up and down ride for the next 20 miles until I reached Connel. On the way however I saw two Eagles about 80-100 metres from me. It was wonderful to see them. Every 10 miles I eat and drink and this tactic seems to work really well. I eat a mixture of Milky ways, Snickers bars (marathons) and Jelly babies. When I finish this adventure I don't think I will want to eat anymore of these for a long time! I eventually arrived at Ballachulish about 3pm. Its a small place but is right next to Glencoe. Tomorrow although the weather is not so good, the journey is shorter about 42 miles up to Fort Augustus.

Ardrossan to Inveraray = 62 miles

I woke this morning and would you credit it the weather was dry! Cold though in a northern breezy sort of way that us softy southerners are not use to! I made my way very easily up the coast road that heads via Largs to Gourock to catch the ferry that goes to Hunter's key near Dunoon. A ferry had just arrived so I pushed my bike onto it and enjoyed the 20 minute trip, ignoring the safety procedures as with my swimming ability I would be a goner if it sunk! Off I got at Hunters Key and started the 40 mile journey to Inveraray. In just a ferry crossing everything had changed, we were now in some very wild countryside. I cycled mile after mile through the mountains not seeing very many people and eventually arrived on the opposite side of the Loch to Inveraray. It was a mile and a half away if I could have only ridden on water! Instead I had to go all the way around the loch a journey of 18 miles! On the way however I saw my first dead Pine Martin who was not careful crossing the road! After checking into my B&B had a meal at The George Hotel which was excellent!

Kirkconnell to Ardrossan - 43 miles

Had a lay in this morning and had breakfast at 9.00 . Today yet more porridge and boiled eggs with soldiers. After loading up my 20lbs weight of all my worldly goods I set out into the sunshine. This lasted a mere mile and it rained on and off again for the next 10 miles. At times like this you have just got to keep going and hope things will change and you can do some "normal" cycling again. Eventually the sun broke through and I weaved my way through some undulating countryside, a bit roller coasterish where if you judged it right you could just get enough speed going down the hill to make it up the other side. I also met a group of unladen LEJOG cyclists who passed me and about 20 miles on I found myself ahead of them. They were amazed how I did it. All I can think of is I must have taken a faster route, goodness knows where they got to. Where I am staying there are great views on a clear day to the Isle of Arran. I am crossing by ferry tomorrow to Dunoon and will stop next in Inveraray.

Longtown to Kirkconnel- 63 miles

I woke to a rather dull morning as I finished my porridge and Golden syrup and headed out in the drizzle to cross into Scotland. At a corner shop I stocked up with about six snickers bars and numerous Milky Ways.Felt a bit embarrassed as I paid for them as the lady might think I some kind of chocoholic. As I crossed into Scotland via Gretna the skies opened up and it rained "cats and dogs" for the next 20 miles. Despite my  waterproof clothing it was not a good experience. Character building maybe, good certainly not. I then began the long slow climb up the Nith valley through misty mountains past Drumlanrig castle to Kirckconnel. This was definitely a back of beyond area with few villages and no potential "watering holes". Even the houses had a tired grey look and I though that the Samaritans must be kept busy here. At last I reached my B and B. It was and old farmhouse with a kind couple who put me in an enormous family room and dried all my wet clothes by their wood burner. As there was nowhere to go in the evening they made me a meal and nothing was too much trouble. I soaked in the bath and reflected on my survival!

Ambleside to Longtown- 53 miles

A lovely sunny morning as I left Ambleside for a hilly ride to Longtown which is just two miles inside the border from Scotland. I rolled down into Grassmere and then began the long climb up Dunmail raise and then round Thirlmere reservoir and across the hills to Hesket Newmarket. On a loney lane I saw a red squirrel and heard the Cuckoo go "cuck cuck oo" ( in June he changes his tune) The little narrow roads were full of sheep and gates you had to keep opening and closing every half mile. When I got to Hesket NewMarket I was running low on water and it was very warm. I rang a door bell but with no answer. I then went next door and a man greeted me and offered to fill my water bottles and made me a cup of tea. I noticed they were Christians and we were able to have a good chat and before I left they prayed for my safe journey. I reflected on their kindness and that I had been sent to that house. When I got to Long town I had a good soak in the bath with plenty of bubbles. It was excellent!

Lancaster to Ambleside - 40 miles

The morning departure started a bit cloudy after some early morning rain which I just missed. I gentle wound my way passed early morning dog walkers along the Lancaster canal towpath. Church bells were ringing and eventually I arrived in Carnforth. Then it was out into the wilder parts of Lancashire before the scenery changed again and I entered the Lake District of Cumbria. The lakes were busy with tourist and I tried not to run some Japanese ones over with my bike as I continued on to Ambleside. The Great North swim was on in Lake Windermere and I reflected as I had a ice cream and stocked up on Snickers bars.The sky turned decidedly nasty and having showered I had a beer and watched the rain fall over the hills.

Day 9 -Eccleston to Lancaster 37 miles

A late breakfast this morning as it was a shorter ride today so ate my way through porridge with maple syrup toast and boiled eggs, loaded up and hit the road. Despite the forecast it was a sunny ride to Lancaster and apart from a unpleasant ride through Preston, I then broke through to the Lancashire countryside. This is a place of canals, cows in long grass and wide rivers . The ride into Lancaster followed a cycle path along by the river Lune and loads of families were out on their bikes. I weaved my way through them and eventually arrived in the town centre. Having checked in and showered I decided to find somewhere to eat. I found a good Italian restaurant and had some great olives and tasty  chicken with two glasses of white wine. All in all a good day!

Day 8 Ellesmere to Eccleston- 66 miles

The weather forecast promised doom and gloom so after breakfast I set out as quickly as possible for Eccleston in Lancashire which is situated between Liverpool and Blackpool. I made good time mainly to a strengthening southerly wind and reached Warrington by early afternoon just in time to see the swing bridge allow a large boat to come up the Manchester shipping canal . We all had to wait for this to finish and then the road opened again and off I went ever northward. Having negotiated the city traffic I headed of into suburbia and eventually the countryside and arrived early without all the promised rain. A real answer to prayer. I then relaxed over coffee and chocolate digestives and reflected on the day . How often our fear are just dreams that never materialise!

Bucknall to Ellesmere- 55miles

It was a lovely sunny morning as I set out from Bucknall and cycled passed  the old disused railway station that is cared for by the local WI. Out into the Shropshire countryside and the "blue remembered hills". I soon was able to see The Long Mynd a large humpback of a hill that has moorland at the top. As time passed I reached the quirky town of Bishop's castle that has some amazing houses. The first thing I notice was the sweet smell of hops that filled the streets. It came from the local brewery which I think is called The Three Tuns and is the oldest brewery in England dating from the late 1680's. The rest of the day was spent criss crossing from England to Wales and back again.. Near Oswestry I stopped at a roadside cafe which was on very much the"basic" side and had a mug of tea and a large bacon sandwich. I sat on a bench outside and watched the swifts glide through the sky in an effortless way. All the way from Africa to here, what was my journey in comparison to theirs. I then continued on to Ellesmere which was splendid and has a large duck population.

Day 6 Grosmont to Bucknell 53 miles

I had stayed the night in a very strange B and B which had  strange plumbing. When I say strange I mean not hot water and the taps rattled when you turned them on. The place was so large I rattled about like a pea! I was glad to get on the road after my morning porridge and faced a challenge after10 minutes as I had to climb up the very steep hill to Grosmont before heading out to the Golden valley towards Hay on Wye. From Hay I crossed Herefordshire on my way to Shropshire. There were alots different birds including Nuthatches, flocks of greenfinches and a calling Cuckoo. Early afternoon arrived and the sunshine and showers continued. I came into a village and found a group of 20 End to End cyclists who were travelling with the Bike Events organisation.We sat outside a pub and swapped stories and they bought me a pot of tea. I then travelled up a hilly valley to Bucknall and stayed in the post office which is also a B&B. The whole village was having a party for some children from Peckham in London to show them how evacuees got on in the war. Lots of people were dressed war time clothing, it was great. In all a very good day!

Day 5 Lower Langford to Grosmont 63 miles

Today I left Somerset in bright sunshine  and wound my way past the Bristol outskirts across the Avon and up the Severn estuary to eventually take the "old Passage" that takes you up to the cycleway across the Severn suspension bridge to Wales. Getting around and about Bristol took alot of map reading but I eventually crossed the Severn bridge and came to Chepstow. The bridge vibrates to the heavy lorries and it is a bit scary at first but the cycle lane is very good. From Chepstow I headed up the Wye valley all shady and lush on what was proving to be a hot day. I was glad of the valleys coolness. Eventually I got to Monmouth and took directions on how to get on the road to Grosmont which has a Norman castle. It was a hot 10 miles journey mostly uphill till I got to my B&B. I found a Swallow trapped in a sun room with my bike so picked it up and let it fly away.

 I walked to the nearest pub which was a 2 mile round trip for supper. I felt I needed the exercise!!

Day 4 Cullumpton to Lower Langford 57 miles

I set out this morning in a slight drizzle. It was hard to get going because I had seen Alison last night and was missing her. I headed out on the Taunton road and eventually got there as the sun peaked through at last. Tauntons' traffic system was a dice with death but after I left there, the run across the Somerset levels and wetlands was wonderful. After crossing the levels the Mendip hills came into view and I eventually reached Cheddar (of cheese fame) It was in this area at Burrington that Augustus Montague Toplady sheltered from a storm and got the idea for his hymn rock of ages. I them climbed over the edge of the mendips to Lower langford to my B and B. It was excellent and my bedroom had a spa bath that created lots of bubbles. I eased the pain away and went to the pub across the road. This morning when I was leaving she had packed me some flapjack,cake and a sandwich to see me through the day. 

Day 3 Launceston to Cullompton 65 miles

I am not one to complain but when I woke up on Sunday morning I did not want to go outside. It had been raining since 3am and in the dim light of 6am nothing had changed except it was now even windier with gusts up to 35 mph. I roused my self at 7 am and offered a prayer to make it through the day. After eating as much as I could I set out in the deluge to cross the edge of Dartmoor that passes 900ft before dropping down into Oakhampton. The first 20 miles were scary, steep hill up and down and wet brake blocks that forced you into a Kamikaze existence. The wind rushed at me and it was a struggle just to keep moving. It never stopped raining the whole journey and it was torrential. I stopped regularly for a bite on a cereal bar , a milky way or some jelly babies and kept drinking water. I could not stop long as even though I had Gortex jacket and trousers and special overshoes I was by now 40 miles on and drenched. The last 20 miles seemed like forever and I had to play mind games on reasons to be thankful. I must admit I did struggle a bit! When I nearly got to the B and B I had to climb out of Cullompton into the gale. I then could not find the B and B and had to knock on a door and  ask some  poor chap to help me. It was a few yards down the road and I have never been so glad for a cup of coffee and a hot soak to mend my wounds. Alison caught up with me in the evening and brought me some dry clothes. It made me realise how much she cared for me and I was thankful to have survived the day!.

Day 2 St Newlyn East to Launceston 40 miles

 Just to say sorry that I can load any pictures at the moment but my B and B has a dodgy wireless signal.Day two however started sunny and continued so as I set out for Wadebridge across the Cornish countryside. Lots of hills and I eventually arrived and passed the long que of traffic for the Cornish showground. Then up to Camelford and across the edge of Bodmin moor ending up in Polyphant and Launceston .My B and B lady was good and she made me a pot of tea and gave me  something to eat. I soaked in the bath and reflected on a better day. Sadly this was not to last! A low preesure was developing in the West and it had my name on it!

Day 1 Lands End to St Newlyn East 60 miles

1. Alison and I travelled down to Lands End on Thursday night and stayed near Sennan cove. Friday morning the day of departure dawned and it was raining hard as I set out from Land's End. It was not just light showers but the heavy stuff. It felt sad to say goodbye to Alison as I headed out along the hilly coast to Zennor and then Penzance. The coast line was shrouded in mist and as I ate a cerial bar about 10 miles out I could not in my wildest imagination think that I would ever get to John O Groats a 1000 miles away! I then heard a Cuckoo and that lifted my spirits and I set out on the road again. From Penzance to Cambourne I got seriously lost on a cycleway and ended up going round in circles and did an "extra" 8 miles in the pouring rain. I sheltered under  a railway bridge and took stock of the situation. Eventually the sun broke through and I headed via Redruth to St Newlyn East. The road turned out to be a roller coaster with long ups and downs. I eventually arrived in sunshine about 5pm and decided to have a shower to clean the brake water stains off my leg. I could not work out how to get the shower hot and the cold water nearly took my breath away. Eventually I got it warm and dissapeared down the pub for some food and a pint. All in all a successful day!

Lets get Packing!!!

You know how it is, you need to get on and get your stuff packed for the journey, but procrastinate over what to take. I do have a fear over taking some heavy spanner uphill and down dale all the way to Scotland and never using it!.At the same time forgetting to take my Swiss Army knife, which no doubt I will use even if its only for opening a bottle of wine! The other issue is clothes and how many pairs of under ware to take. I read one helpful guide to "minimalist cycling" that suggested I think, rather optimistically two pairs of pants. Wear one, wash and dry the other pair on the radiator overnight. If  they were still not dry in the morning, the suggestion was to put them over the tea pot in the morning like a cosy to finish off the drying process.At least it would add a new dimension to breakfast conversation with the other guests. Hopefully I will not have to result to that! I have also been reading a book from the 1940's on a cycling tour in the west country . I had the book when I was 13 and gave it away. I got it back again from a book stall in Hay on Wye which I will pass close by on my trip. Alison and I spent our honeymoon there so it will  have special memories for me I travel through.

Less Than a Week to Go!!

Had a pleasant if very windy 21 mile warm up ride today. Over 109 mile covered in the last 5 days and the legs feel OK for an old chap! I learnt this week about the need to pace myself  and just take my time, drink plenty and conserve energy. Not much to see this morning on my ride, except an escaped cow that I treated with caution as he "mooed" at me! Plenty of new road kill creatures including foxes and badgers who have not mastered their "green cross code". I am starting to sort out what items to take on the journey  and hope they will all fit in my saddle bag. Fortunately I have my expect packer in Alison on the case and what will not fit in is left behind! I am also posting  materials onto Wick in Scotland for packing my bike when I fly home. Two more training rides and then I'm off too Lands End, it a bit scary!! 

A Bad Day For Squirrels

I set out on my 32 mile ride this morning and it was really enjoyable. The weather was warm, the wind light and the miles went by easily. I headed up the river valley to Stockland,  the sign of which was changed by somebody to Sockland!  I stopped for a drink and some young cows came to visit me. Climbing out of Stockland  I came across two dead squirrels and another one checking out the situation. They had obviously misjudged crossing the road and had been hit by a car. The survivor decided to cut his loses on seeing me and headed off into the bushes. It reminded me that during the 60-70's adverts appeared on TV for road safety promoting the "Tufty club". Children were shown how to cross the road by a cartoon squirrel. I got to thinking that today on the current evidence they might not be the best role model!!